Sign up Calendar Latest Topics
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment   Page 2 of 3      Prev   1   2   3   Next
Tatsu

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 46
Reply with quote  #16 
Too bad on size and price. Now what? Am I back to buying 4 used steinbergers and ripping the bridges off of them?
0
Tatsu

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 46
Reply with quote  #17 
Someone is selling a Megatar on Stickist.com. I tried to look at the back of one in Google images but I'm still not sure if a person could saw down that body and then put strings on the back. What do you think? Have you ever had your hands on a Megatar?
0
Jtmart

Avatar / Picture

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 30
Reply with quote  #18 
I've never handled a Megatar, I do know they have a tilted head stock and they have a typical 10.5mm string spacing which is around that .410".

There is this I found available: http://headlessusa.com/jcustom-fixed-bridge

A Steinberger replacement available for $129, not bad for the money but can't find specs on it, although I did find specs on a Steinberger which has a .420" string spacing. Intonation appears to be preset on these but may have an adjustment I can't see in the pics.

I can find no commercially available bridges of any kind that have a spacing narrower than 10mm. Emmett designed and built his bridges specifically for the very narrow spacing he uses on his 10 and 12 string instruments. If you really want something that narrow you will either have to part out a couple Sticks or have someone design and build it.

__________________
Why not?
0
TxTouchStylist

Moderator
Registered:
Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #19 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tatsu
Someone is selling a Megatar on Stickist.com. I tried to look at the back of one in Google images but I'm still not sure if a person could saw down that body and then put strings on the back. What do you think? Have you ever had your hands on a Megatar?


MEGBACKS.JPG 

Here're the backs of 2 Megatars, one bolt on and one neck thru. The internal body & faceplate of the bolt on is copper tape shielded to form a Faraday cage; never had the faceplate off of the neck thru, i'd suspect it's similarly shielded. The neck thru's obviously active pickup equipped, cutting away the body would require moving the battery compartment.  The backside of the necks are flat down the middle and rounded on the sides. Give me a clearer description on how you'd cut the body; any further info / pics or measurements you'd like and i'll gladly provide them.

Glenn


0
Tatsu

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 46
Reply with quote  #20 
Thanks TxTouchStylist,

looks like the rounded headstock kills the idea of putting strings on the back.
0
Tatsu

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 46
Reply with quote  #21 
I wonder how easy it would be to machine down the sides of those JCustom bridges. 

Jtmart were you able to calculate the kinds of tension are on a 12 string stick or warr guitar etc...?
0
Jtmart

Avatar / Picture

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 30
Reply with quote  #22 
The wound strings on a long scale for the light gauge, starting at .095 are around the 21-24 lb range. Heavy gauge starting at .128 is mid thirties. The Stick scale lengths aren't all the same for each model so it will vary a little. I think Warr guitars are 35" scale so may be a pound our two tighter. That is for the 5th bass tuning, I assume a 4ths tuning would be gauged to be about the same.
__________________
Why not?
0
ixlramp

Avatar / Picture

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 82
Reply with quote  #23 
I play basses setup for tapping and have been searching for the optimum 'tension profile' across the strings, and the lowest practical tension. I find a steady decrease of tension from low to high ideal, more massive strings inherently require more tension to keep their vibration and momentum under control, and to maintain good tone. Bass guitar string sets range from 30 pounds (extra light) to 60 pounds (heavy). Tappers require a low tension to be playable and don't really need more than 30 pounds on the lowest string. I fing tapping incresingly difficult on higher bass strings so the tension should fall and approach guitar tension (around 20 pounds).

This tension chart from Kalium Strings (formerly Circle K Strings) is out of date for their products but extremely useful for roughly approximating other brands of roundwound and for designing string sets. It has sharp/flat notes and covers an extreme pitch range. The bass chart is for 34" but the tension for other scales can be calculated by multiplying the value by (your scale / 34)squared. They are about to launch a new store and products so grab this chart while you can, i'm not sure if the new store will have a pdf chart.
http://circlekstrings.com/CKSIMAGES/CircleKtensionChart130105.pdf

They are a very innovative string company offering bass length gauges from .008 to .266, however currently their tapered strings have a very short taper (for good reason) so may not be compatible with string-through-body instruments, this hopefully may change with the new store appearing soon, the new homepage to keep an eye on is here:
http://kaliumstrings.com/home.html

Interestingly, all their standard strings below a certain gauge are long enough for a 40" scale instrument, making ultra long scale experiments affordable. Their larger gauges are available for 34-35", 36-37" and 40" scales. Because tappers lose scale length due to the string mute and string response i consider ultra long scale a very promising area for tapper experimentation.
0
Tatsu

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 46
Reply with quote  #24 
Thanks ixlramp. That's helpful. I talked to the guys over at Homemade Music Clubhouse and Ted Crocker said that if you make a tapping instrument 1/2 thick out of 3 or 4 laminates then you don't even need reinforcement even with 12 strings on the front and 12 on the back. Sound will be detrimentally affected if you use hunks of differing woods like that though. Better is to have a laminated core of about eleven layers 2/16 of an inch thick each (according to another website), making for a total of about 2 inches of laminated core. The rest of the sides of the neck can be your standard bass neck woods. There's an image of it on the builders corner sub-forum here showing the back of a bass neck.
0
phazon

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 2
Reply with quote  #25 
So,...D'addario has guitar gauge strings at bass lengths (34" scale)?
0
Big George Waters

Avatar / Picture

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 85
Reply with quote  #26 

phazon, I realize I'm late to this topic - but I believe GHS does, and I think they [at least used too...] make a .009 that worked on my extended scale Syme Guitar, which I believe is a 36 in scale.

I know when I converted my '68 Coral Longhorn [34in scale] bass to an 8 string bass, I was amazed at how thin the octave strings were, and I know for sure those were GHS - keep in mind, that was a hollow body dual [fixed] truss rod instrument, and I never kept it tuned to pitch if not being used for extended periods, because I was not sure what would happen to the neck long term.

As for tension, this is one thread I am really reading - because I got a 12 string Warr Phalanx which incredible as this sounds has the melody strings set up to mirror the bass strings, meaning the heavy strings run down the center - so I am thinking of tuning it in 5ths - at least the melody portion, and maybe keep the bass side in 4ths....

I have something interesting coming my way in a few days, it's a TT Mobius Megatar Toneweaver which is set up as a 12 string tuned entirely in 3rds.

I do not know the actual tuning - but the seller is sending me all kinds of charts with gauges, tension, and tuning info regarding this tuning.

If anyone is interested, I'll gladly see if I can get that info transcribed here.


__________________

Big George W

East Derby CT

WARR, Mobius Megatar [2], Syme, KYDD, Ovation [2], Steinberger [3], Tune, Schecter, Musicmakers [lyres, etc...], Ibanez SRAS7 “Ashula”

digitech, T.C. Electronics, ART, Lexicon, GK, Markbass, EA, Bag End, Guild/Hartke, SWR, EV, Radial, Furman

RAMSA, Alesis, Tascam, Fostex, Panasonic, Marantz, Sony, Roland, Yamaha, Audio Technica, AKG

Ampex, HHB, TDK Professional

 

0
ixlramp

Avatar / Picture

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 82
Reply with quote  #27 
D'Addario guitar strings are only long enough to reach the tuner post nearest the nut on 34" and 35" basses, or maybe a little further if you use locking tuners.
I'm currently trying to create DIY string joining clamps so that i can use guitar strings on my basses.

For bass length plain steel strings, you can use D'Addario 'Loop end' plain steel strings, they are extremely long, no idea why. But you need to add your own ball end to the loop, i am using M6x5mm grub screws, they simply screw into the loop and stay there.

I have some experience of creating fifths string sets for tapping so i may be able to help.

> a TT Mobius Megatar Toneweaver which is set up as a 12 string tuned entirely in 3rds.

That sounds very interesting and is roughly a setup i would like to experiment with. I have developed a thirds tuning and playing method that can be used to play Just Intonation and microtonal scales on an instrument with normal frets.
I would be interested to know the exact tuning of that Megatar.
0
Big George Waters

Avatar / Picture

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 85
Reply with quote  #28 

Hello ixlramp !!

...not too be wise, but so would I !!

I would imagine it starts in B and goes up in thirds from there - as I have not put it on a tuner yet... because - well, here's a really dumb question:

What are we using to tune with - is it the zero fret [behind the mute] or the first fret [in front of the mute] ??

The man who sold it to me provided detailed hand written information [I believe he is/was an building design engineer...] with all kinds of formulas to figure out exact tension for proper string tuning with proper gauge size with proper length of scale, and it's a bit over whelming to me !!

 

I will though provide you the exact tuning once I get a moment to do so, as I have a bunch of other things to contend with right now including my father whose health is not good.

But I do know that the string interval is exactly the same from one to the other - like playing a twelve string instrument where all the strings are in proper relation to one another - in this case all 3rds.

He set the instrument up in this manner so he could play complete scales without moving his hand position.

So, as opposed to having two seperate tuning portions [one bass, one melody...] this particular instrument is set up as a non-divided fingerboard.

 

The other Megatar I have set up like a traditional classic Chapman Stick, and truth be told - my own opinion - I feel my Mobious Megatar [for me...] is far superior than the Stick, because of the design of the strap set up, which is more like an electric bass - as opposed to that harness/belt clip thing the people at SE use.


__________________

Big George W

East Derby CT

WARR, Mobius Megatar [2], Syme, KYDD, Ovation [2], Steinberger [3], Tune, Schecter, Musicmakers [lyres, etc...], Ibanez SRAS7 “Ashula”

digitech, T.C. Electronics, ART, Lexicon, GK, Markbass, EA, Bag End, Guild/Hartke, SWR, EV, Radial, Furman

RAMSA, Alesis, Tascam, Fostex, Panasonic, Marantz, Sony, Roland, Yamaha, Audio Technica, AKG

Ampex, HHB, TDK Professional

 

0
ixlramp

Avatar / Picture

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 82
Reply with quote  #29 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big George Waters
What are we using to tune with - is it the zero fret [behind the mute] or the first fret [in front of the mute] ??

I suggest staying with the convention of stating tuning at the nut, as this makes it easier to compare to other instruments of the same scale.
The nut also corresponds to the scale length of the instrument, so this makes it easier to work with the string tension equation where we need to know the note over a particular scale length.
0
Big George Waters

Avatar / Picture

Registered User
Registered:
Posts: 85
Reply with quote  #30 
Ok... that's what I was hoping for - thanks !!
__________________

Big George W

East Derby CT

WARR, Mobius Megatar [2], Syme, KYDD, Ovation [2], Steinberger [3], Tune, Schecter, Musicmakers [lyres, etc...], Ibanez SRAS7 “Ashula”

digitech, T.C. Electronics, ART, Lexicon, GK, Markbass, EA, Bag End, Guild/Hartke, SWR, EV, Radial, Furman

RAMSA, Alesis, Tascam, Fostex, Panasonic, Marantz, Sony, Roland, Yamaha, Audio Technica, AKG

Ampex, HHB, TDK Professional

 

0
Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.