Criticalness of Fret Spacing?

[JamesH]

Hi,

My name is James and I am new here...

I am building a Chapman style stick. Why? I like building things and I want the strings a little farther apart... and... maybe I am too cheap...

Anyway, I have been all over the net reading about fret spacing. Does anyone have a clear answer on what is acceptable in terms of error in 100s or 1000s of an inch?

I mean, in the old days they didn't have laser-guided CNCs with hyper-dimesional, quasi-intelligent articulators and they managed to make good fretted instruments.

So at what point does the innacuracy really start to show up in terms of intonation as a soloist or playing along with a perfectly tuned piano or synth for instance?

Thanks!

[rjgoos]

Originally posted by JamesH
Hi,

My name is James and I am new here...

I am building a Chapman style stick. Why? I like building things and I want the strings a little farther apart... and... maybe I am too cheap...

Anyway, I have been all over the net reading about fret spacing. Does anyone have a clear answer on what is acceptable in terms of error in 100s or 1000s of an inch?




Woo Hoo!! Another home-builder....what is getting into people?!!?!

I have made three instruments the old fashioned way....measuring the frets with a reliable ruler, etc, and have (to my ear) produced instruments with passable intonation. You can have almost any hunk of wood sawn for frets by a pro shop, though.

My bias, however, is that accuracy with regards to height (action) is at least, and probably more, important than accuracy with regards to intonation, especially with the low action needed for a touchstyle instrument.

Again, just my bias.

Jay

[JamesH]

Hi Jay,

Thanks for the reply.

Now you got me going on a different tangent...

What are people finding to be a good fret-height?

I should explain a little bit about the frets I want. I am open to discourse on this matter for sure!

I am considering something like "Rails" frets that Chapman uses. I know that this can increase the complexity a bit but I am sure I can work it out even if I need a custom router bit made.

I'll explain for those who may be unfamiliar. Basically, the "rails" fret is a small piece of square stock stainless steel, around (I am guessing) 3/16" square. It has been machined off to resemble a diamond shape that fits neatly into a matched shaped groove in the fretboard. I do not know what the fret height is that they are using- although I would like to...

I would especially like to know if there is a better height or fret system. Their (Chapman's site) claims that these are far more playable and sensitive than the Rods system.

Here's why I like this fret idea. I think that the top edge of the fret can be ground once it is in place to move its angle either towards or away from the nut. This, I presume would effectively correct it's on-fret-center accuracy?

This will be my first instrument (besides a drumset) that I have built... ANY info would be greatly appreciated!

[rjgoos]

James wrote:

>I am considering something like "Rails" frets that Chapman uses. I know that this can increase the complexity a bit but I am sure I can work it out even if I need a custom router bit made.<


The original pointy fret was, as far as I know, not invented by Mr. Chapman. Patent number 4,064,779, by Petillo, was of a triangle-shaped fret, which could be inserted into a normally-slotted fretboard....much simpler than routing for "rails".

I have no idea whether such fret materials can be purchased anywhere, but theoretically, it would allow the installation of frets with the same shape as "rails", but with a normal fretboard slotting installation.

Mr. Petillo has updated his design (patent 6,613,969), and he seems to offer fretting services:

http://www.petilloguitars.com/frets.php

From the pictures, it seems that Mr. Petillo does some fine work.

Just some food for thought.


Jay

[BigDaddyPoo]

Why not use a pre-slotted fretboard, James?

http://www.allenguitar.com/ has them for around $20-$40 depending on the scale lenght. Then you don't have to measure... unless you use rails, in which case my answer is: hmm, I don't know, James.

[JamesH]

Hey Big Daddy,

Yes this is an interesting situation... Hmmm

I am going to do one of these things:

Either send my wood out and have someone else do the fret slots:
My first choice would be Dr. Petillo as reccomended by JAY.

This would solve the problem of my greatest fear: Fret alignment and height for intonation!

:(

Or if that is prohibitivley expensive or he can't help me I will get the stainless steel square stock from Small Parts Inc. and machine a "rails like" pointy fret. I do not want to glue a board over the beautiful, 10-year air dried cocobolo I just bought for this....

http://www.anexotichardwood.com (great service!)

I have these really neat optical linear slides with a micrometer adjustment that I may be able to modify for a dremel-style router. I need to think on this one...

Oh, I am considering the stainless triangular style because of their hardness... I do not want to have to replace frets and I think that with my metal work experience I can dress them myself with good success.