View Full Version : DIY design, mark II
Fredrik
4th May 2005, 8.38 am
If all goes as planned, another guitar/tapper will be made based on my first design. The string configuration and woods are yet to be decided (and will both be different from mine), but the bodyshape will be the same. This time the instrument is for a friend of mine. If I can, I'll post pics of the building process this time as well.
BrendaEM
4th May 2005, 11.06 pm
Oh, for a friend...I was wondering where your other guitar went. I look forward to seeing progress pics.
Fredrik
9th May 2005, 10.43 pm
This weekend a couple of things where decided concerning the instruments functionality;
It will be a 6 string bass, tuned in inverted fifts with the Fernandez sustainer pickup and an additional bass pickup. Tuning will start in low Bb and ends in an A.
It will have two outputs, one from each pickup system.
Stingspacing will be parallell, and set close to a guitar spacing (at the bridge).
I'll get back to you on the woods, but I belive the fretboard will be in dark wood, probably palisander, and so will the pickup be as well (the bass pu).
A neck trough design will be used this time as well.
Production time isn't known yet, but we're hoping early August.
Fredrik
26th May 2005, 6.55 pm
Got the first pics from Listerud today. As you can see, the neck is slimmer and the guitar top is in one pice to avoid the layer of bubinga to be split where the neck goes trough the body. It's a bit of a flashback for me to see another instrument in the making, with the same bodyshape I designed earlier.
Fredrik
26th May 2005, 6.57 pm
Another view, notice the grinding tracks from the grinder:
Fredrik
26th May 2005, 6.59 pm
And last, the bottom, where you can see the joining of the neck, bodywings and top.
BrendaEM
26th May 2005, 7.29 pm
It looks good.
I notice that the fretboard isn't radiused at this point. It appears that the instrument has a 3 piece neck-though with a capped top. Is the top ash?
I wouldn't worry about the ginding marks. Sanding is just trading scratches for smaller scratches : )
Fredrik
27th May 2005, 11.00 am
The top layer is Norwegian maple, so are the three layers in the neck (the Norwegian maple have slighter less density than your American maple).The dark mid layer in the body is bubinga, and finally the back is made of Norwegian alder, a light and slightly redish wood.
The fretboard is palisander, and will not be rounded - but served flat ;-) Just like the one I have.
And, I'm not worried about the grinding marks, the finnish I got on my instrument when it was finnished is close to a babys skin ;-)
Fredrik
28th May 2005, 5.54 pm
A couple of corrections to the woods after speaking with Listerud; the neck and body is all from alder and the two top layers is flamed maple, and wenge as the middle layer.
Further info; it will concist of a fernandez sustainer microphone setup, for infinate sustain - and one custom mic measuring 8 x 8 cm with one coil in each end. Pickup housing on this will be palisander, same as neck.
It looks a lot like mine right now, but this will change as you all will see later on in the building process :-)
PhoBucket
17th June 2005, 3.14 pm
Fredrik,
How is this instrument coming along?
Fredrik
7th July 2005, 7.28 pm
Well, I wish I knew.... I haven't heard from Listerud for some time now so I can only guess how far he is. Got this picture of the custom p.u sendt over a little while ago, so this is all I have at the time being. Will ask if he has more pics emediately, the world needs to know!
BrendaEM
7th July 2005, 8.07 pm
Mounting the puckup electronics in wood is a nice touch : )
Fredrik
8th July 2005, 6.18 am
yeah, its the same wood used as in the fretboard. Again its custom made at www.bassculture.de .
PhoBucket
14th July 2005, 3.08 pm
I like the concept of making the ramp and the pickup covers a single unit. This is the first time I have seen that done with exposed poles. Cool.
Fredrik
31st July 2005, 2.05 pm
And, suddenly, it is all finnished :-) More info on sound and playability in a couple of weeks.
Fredrik
31st July 2005, 2.07 pm
And the full body shot. Notice the slightly different head on this one. The body is also slightly more narrow to accomodate the smaller neck.
BrendaEM
31st July 2005, 3.56 pm
It looks nice : )
Is that inlay I see on the center pickup?
If you don't mind me asking, why six strings?
I notice that you remove the body top horn completly. How is that to play?
How is the balance and weight?
Where are the sound samples? : )
Fredrik
31st July 2005, 7.20 pm
Yes, it is an inlay!
6 Strings...hm...I'm not quite sure why Steinar (my friend) chose that config, but I seem to remember a wish for a sustain tapping bass. The mic close to the neck is a sustainer for that reason.
The balance on my instrument is perfect, but haven't tried this on yet. Will let you know. Mine weighs about the same as a "regular" bass I assume (5.02 kgs), and this is supposed to be a bit lighter.
Sounds clips eh? Well, let me get back to you on that one :-)
BrendaEM
1st August 2005, 12.18 am
I looks like it balances well.
[The picture reminds me how much I have to fuss with the strap on my strat to keep it in a playing position. Now I am even more impatient to finish mine. ]
When you give them away, please remember that I like yours a little better : )
They both look very well made. The new one looks like it could do lots of sounds. I could only guess about the center pickup. Is it 2 coils, or 4?
Fredrik
1st August 2005, 7.11 am
Giving away? Not sure I understand what you mean there, mate. I'm keeping mine, and Steinar is getting his today from Listerud. Will probably speak to him tonight about his first impressions (I like mine a bit better too by the way....).
The center pickup, is playable as a humbucker, or a singlecoil. Like the once one mine. It has two coils, Wich really gives you a lot of sonical possibilities. The SC is glassy and open, whilst the HB is fat and growly.
On my axe, a combination of HB close to the neck and a SC near the bridge is my favourite so far :-)
PhoBucket
1st August 2005, 6.36 pm
Is is just the picture, or is the string spacing on the 6 string narrower at the bridge than it is at the nut?
Fredrik
1st August 2005, 11.19 pm
It's the pic Pho, paralell strings it is.
BrendaEM
2nd August 2005, 5.33 pm
Sorry Fredrik, I was trying to say that I do like yours better, in a humorous manner....which failed.
Fredrik
2nd August 2005, 8.39 pm
Oh, my fault I belive BrendaEM. Being a Norwegian several subtle and good points in english fly right over my head I'm afraid. But, still apreciate your compliment on my guitar.
The work on the third guitar in this series is about to start by the way, another 8 stringer tuned in fourths. I belive the woods will be Zebra wood on top, a thin dark layer, and then Alder in the rest of the body. If I know Mr. Listerud right, it wil probably be a combo of Alder and Palisander in the neck.
rjgoos
3rd August 2005, 4.21 am
Given the world-wide shortage of tapping instruments, Fredrik, I suspect Mr. Listerud could become quite busy. It appears that his work is all top-rate.
Jay
GaryOpenhill
3rd August 2005, 2.29 pm
Originally posted by rjgoos
Given the world-wide shortage of tapping instruments, Fredrik, I suspect Mr. Listerud could become quite busy. It appears that his work is all top-rate.
Jay
Hey, i came "this" close to start ordering an instrument from listerud my self the other day, and then i suddenly drove just a little bit too fast on the freeway, and was stopped by a man in uniform. :rolleyes: The fine i received put me weeks and months away from buying anything tap-worthy. :mad: :mad: :mad: !!!!!
Fredrik ; Gary <----- Norwegian too... we should start the fattes Scandinavian tap club ever! I just have to get an instrument first.
Fredrik
4th August 2005, 1.11 pm
Hey Gary, a club seems like a fine idea indeed!
Don't know many tappers here in Norway, so it would definetely be nice to have someone to exchange ideas and experiences with.
I'm sure Listerud would be happy to produce your tapper, designed to your need specefically. Let me know if I can be of any assistance here. Have some experience on the subject now my self.
Anyway, to order you need a deposit of 20% of the agreed price. The rest is payed when the job is done. So, to get things started you dont need that much.
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