Brenda's Tap Guitar Project

[BrendaEM]

Using a small brush and a rag, I applied one coat of Tru-oil on all the body cavities. My thinking was that having the pores filled would help the copper foil to stick. I also wanted some finish on the whole guitar.

Because it's an oll finish, it tends to build up slower than lacquer or poly, but still I wiped out all the excess with a rag.

I set the rags out to dry on somehting non-flamable. I also squeeze the bottle, and cap the finish to keep air out. I have read the some people drop marbles inside the container as they use it.

[BrendaEM]

I cut out some foil about the same size as the pickups. I left a little tab so that the foil could be soldered to that inside the main cavity. After, I just peeled the backing off and smoothed it down. The tab could have been a bit longer.

I think doing the pickup routs all the way would have made the pickup wedge because there isn't enough clearence between the pickup and the body.

[BrendaEM]

I foiled the main cavity, and then I soldered the segments of foil together. I soldered the tabs from the pickup cavities. I attached some ground wires. The act of soldering will loosen the foil right under the solder joint.

Using a digital multimeter, I tested the segments to make sure they were all conneced as one. for the sheilding to work it all has to be conntected to the instrument's ground wire.

The Bartolini CX pickup has a copper-clad circuit board on which the pickup is built, but I still want to sheild the connection area as best as I could.

Everything will have to be insulated to keep the copper from shorting out and bare connectors--esspecially under the pickups.

[BrendaEM]

The ABM guitar bridgepeices came in. I tested all my measurements, and drilled and fitted the bridgepieces. I will post a picture of them soon. I am cautiously optimistic that the instrument will intonate,

I strung up the instrument. It seems to sound pretty good, unplugged. I was very daunted on how much work it was going to be to make it playable.

This morning, I finished fitting the nut, I leveled the top again. I did some more leveling on the fretboard. A few frets were proud/tall, and I wanted to be conservitive (which is unlike me) with how much I flattened the board. I flattened and radiused all 27 frets again, without the benifit of a crowning tool. I used a lot of masking tape to protect the fretboard. I used a felt-tip marker to film all the frets, and then sanded the board with #600 paper wrapped around a 8-10" file to make sure the frets were all locally even.

While I was working on the fretboard, I raised the grain on the instrument, be wiping it with a damp warm rag. I had done it once, but before the final sanding, I wanted to hit it once more. I recommend this when finishing maple with oils; the spruce doesn't need it done as much. If you raise the grain, please be prepared for the shock, as your nice sanding job becomes feeling whiskery. It straightens and lifts the gains of the wood, so they can be sanded off (again.) If I was a purist, I would repeat the raising and sanding until nothing stands up.

I sanded the body from 220, 320, 400, and 600. I sanded the fretboard to 1500. I also used some gray steelwool equivilant over the entire guitar. I would avoid colored Scotchpads for this as they seem to leave a little color behind. I kept looking for dents and marks, and fixed them as I went.

I rubbed the guitar with a clean rag, and set it down in a newly cleaned area. I put paper under the instrument.

I cut a quite small piece of cloth, and folded it. I rubbed on a coat of Tru-Oil, working into the wood as much as I could as I went. I rubbed down the instrument with the steel-less wool, and applied another coat. The first coat comes out botchy because the wood abosrbs the oil unevenly.

Oil's like Try-Oil and Linspeed (not plain boiled linseed, which doesn't usually dry) make the wood look honey colored. It's hard to make the surface finish as glossy as lacquer or polyurathane, but they can be repaired, and use little solvents. It's best use is satin finishes. The one thing they have going for them is they seep into the wood, giving it a really deep finish. When I post pictures, I am sure they won't look as good as a lacquer job, but when you turn the wood, it really plays with the light. It's strange that the samples I have done in the oil look almost antique. The oil can be removed from hands with olive-oil followed by soap and water.

[BrendaEM]

At this stage, as I apply finish, I try to remove any that's on the surface.

The I am only putting two coats on the fretboard. When it was dry, before it was cured, I used a dry rag to buff the finish off of the frets. and fretboard. I am not going to fill all the pores in the fretboard, like I am doing for the rest of the instrument.

[BrendaEM]

After the fourth coat dried, I lightly sanded the guitar with #600 paper, and #400 for the rough spots. I tried not to burn though the finish.

At this point the tops of each season ring, the summer wood was matt finished. I took the tops off of the minute orange peel. I steel-wooless padded the rest to break any left over gloss.

I rubbed on the fifth coat, which went on nice and easy. At this point applying coats is almost like putting wax on. If you are doing this kind of finish, and you are worried about drips, you are still using way too much : ) It's hard too describe, but It's like putting a film on film. I only wet the surface with the oil, and rub it thin. To a point, there is only so much finish I can take off, and I don't want the coat much thinner than that. It does build up.

[BrendaEM]

I am at eight thin coats, now. I sanded inside the pickup cavities to make sure the pickups still fit, Because I have been sanding between coats, I don't have a lot of build-up, otherwise. I am going to try to let it set until tommorow.

[BigDaddyPoo]

How long are you waiting between coats?
What are you using to fill the pores?

Can't wait to see the pictures!

[BrendaEM]

Maple and spruce are pretty closed grain, so I am only using the oil finish.

[Mahogany would need to be filled. Rosewood would need to be sealed to keep from weaping color. Some people use a wash coat of shalac. Exotics need to be sealed because the ph will keep the finish from hardening.]

In the San Jose area, the oil dries in two hours and cures/hardens in a few days. I've been pushing it a bit.

With this finish, there is probaly more finish in the wood than over it.

After the eighth or ninth coat, I steeless-wooled padded down the instrument. I tried to keep from burning through at the edges, and around the pickups, while trying to get out all the surface weirdness. I think the trick is to use the lighest touch while using the steeless pad, so the peaks of the surface are abraded off. I wiped the guitar down.

Using a small cotton rag peice, about half the size of a Dollar , I applied the thinest coat of finish I could to the instrument. It's really feels like rubbing on wax at this point. I plan to do this once more. These micro-thin coats dry fast.

Thanks for the encoragement. I can't wait to see some more pics of your instrument : )

[BigDaddyPoo]

Thanks. I suppose the dry times would be quite a bit longer here in the southeast where the humidity is a lot higher.

I can't decide if I want to try TruOil or french polish on my first instrument. I'm going to try out both methods on some scraps and see which looks the best and which I can pull off the best. Though, I really like the way Warwick's TruOil finishes look.

[BrendaEM]

I thought about french-polishing. It's interesting that some people put shalaac under Tru-Oil, and others put lacquer over Tru-Oil. I also read about someone who put Tru-Oil over a French polish. It's all weird. The only thing that anyone agrees on is using as thin a finish as possible.

[DirkM]

I've used a Tru-Oil and after about 8 coats it's starts to gloss nicely if that's what you want.
I've heard of people using all the variations before and after including poly after Tru-Oil.

In my most recent bass build I opted for Danish oil. I really like using it, very natural oil style finish. The downside is you need to wait about 8 hours between coats. I've heard to can add up layers and get it to shine, but I wanted that natural wood look and feel.

I'm sure you know about it already, but on the TalkBass forums there is a great lutiers area that many people have some great opinions and advice. Just do a search on Tru-oil and you'll find plenty of topics.

By the way nice job on your build Brenda! I think my next build is going to be a tapper. :)
Dirk

[BrendaEM]

I have used Tung Oil, but I haven't tried Dainish oil.

What I wanted was a nice satin finish. I rubbed the instrument down with steel-less wool.

Thanks for the nice comments, DirkM.

[BrendaEM]

I made a rubbing of the finished wiring cavity, and made a template from that.

I used a piece of scrap veneer to make a cavity cover.

[BrendaEM]

I needed to modify the Alps K-fader to fit in the height of the compartment. I carefully removed the cover and trimmed it to allow the terminals to be bent down.

[BrendaEM]

This is a ABM guitar single string bridge. They are well made. They have a diagonal set/grub screw to lock the saddle into place. The attaching screws they send are two different types one rounded on top, the other flat so the saddle could pass over. They outsmarted themselves, as they just should have sent flat ones.

[BrendaEM]

My friend/roomate gave me an idea. For the 4 saddles that use bass strings, I added an extra measure of safety by filing a place for the string eye to sit into. There is little chance that they would pop out now. I touched up the end with a felt-tipped marker.

I drilled and attached the saddles to make sure they will work.

After the finish was set. I reattached the bridge pieces, tuners, and strap-buttons.

[BrendaEM]

I used some cable from a DB-9 RS232 extention to wire the pickups. The wire is 24 gauge, and nice for this purpose. I used the same wire loopy-deal as Bartolini did, just don't get the wire loop too hot. I filed a rounded notch in the (upper right) pickup housing so that the wires are not crushed.

All eight connections are carried into the instrument body, so it can be wired in differnt ways, without doing this part again.

I took this photo so I wouldn't have to take out the pickups again.

[BrendaEM]

Where to begin...

The guitar is protected with cloth to thwart my best efforts in scratching it during the wiring process.

The jack (top left) is a nice item. It's stereo, and has two sets of normally open/closed contacts that are isolated from the rest. The instrument's battery is switch from the jack.

The rocker switch (top right) is a cheap part, but it is double-pole double-throw. I will keep my eyes open for a nicer one. It switches the pickups. In this picture, the bridge/neck pickups are wired reversed.

The Alps K-fader (center is wired) for a stereo volume. It is protected from shorting with a small piece of scrap plastic.

The buffer amplifier (lower center) is mounted using insulated washers made of the same scrap plastic.

The bundle of wires (lower right) come from the pickups. Right now they are just wired as stereo humbuckers.

It may not seem it from the picture, but it was difficult to get all this to fit. There's plenty of room, until you realize that the cover flips down, the rocker fills the space over the buffer board, and the jack fits down through the clearing between the red wires on the lower left.

If I had to do this again, all the wire would be 24 gauge.

[BrendaEM]

It works! Today, I played my instrument.

I need screws for the rear cover, and the fader. I also need a knob for the fader, but it seems to work. I also need to flip the wiring on the pickup switch.

It appears to be 5 octaves. The bass notes sound more like a bass than a Stick. The bass is punchy.

[I actually like the bass sounds on a Stick best.)

The treble sound are a little chimey like a cross between a Steinberger and a Stratocaster, the mid range reminds me of a Les Paul.

The preamp seems to be working okay. The right-angle adapter is troublesome.

I will post a few picks tomorrow.

[GaryOpenhill]

Originally posted by BrendaEM
It works! Today, I played my instrument.



YEAH! :)

[loneguitarist]

Originally posted by BrendaEM
It works! Today, I played my instrument.

Wow! Thats great, I've followed this project all the way through and it has been inspirational! Can't wait to see some photos of the finished product, and if you can make a video, I would gladly host it on my website!

[Igos du Iskana]

Wow, congratulations!!! must be quite a relief to know that it's really working!
I'm very curious to the pic's of the completed project

[BrendaEM]

I need to swap out the screws and switch, but...

[BrendaEM]

I need to make/get a fader knob and the correct screws.
The pic is a little over exposed...

[BigDaddyPoo]

Wow that's friggin beautiful Brenda! Congrats!

[Gustin]

Woo hoo! Looks great!

[rjgoos]

Wow! Mint Juleps for everybody (being Kentucky Derby Day and all....)!!!


Jay

[billbowen]

let me add my congratulations as well, brenda. good job! when do we get a sound sample? :)

[BrendaEM]

I got the missing screws today for both the back and fader. I also got a nicer switch, but I don't know if I have thin scrap kicking around to make another cover plate. I still need a fader knob.

I will post a sound sample soon. I need to get used to the string spacing. I also found one high fret that I want to attend to.

Thanks for the encoragement, everyone : ) It's only took--a year. Well actually most of work was started after October.

I also want to say thanks to my friend Tom for his help, and letting borrow his tools.

[Gustin]

So, have you gotten used to the string spacing? What do you think of your new instrument? Will you actually put your tapper down long enough for you to reply to this? :)

[BrendaEM]

I have gotten used to the string spacing, as find that I can pass one hand with another without any angst of interference, but I find that this no comprimise spacing does compromise how easy the instrument is play on the higher strings with the left hand. For the right hand, the wide string spacing is easier for me to play.

I do want more crossover, the area where both hands can play to be larger. If I make another instrument, and I have enough neck wood to make a few more, I will make it with 9mm spacing on top, and 11mm at the bridge. I may also reduce the treble string to the edge from 5mm to 4mm. This would make the neck 8mm narrower edgewise.

The left hand access could be made better by making the strap horn more seperate, such as in a Jackson Soloist, but then there is the possibility that the strap might get in the way.

The right hand body scooping I did worked well. I modded a Carvin like this a few years ago. My right hand can pass all the way up the neck without bumping the body.

I rounded the neck a little more. The squareness is gone from the back. I refinished the area I worked on, and it seems to match pretty well.

I found one high fret, and fixed that.

I still need to make a slider knob, and get the pot moved over a bit. The rocker switch is an eyesore. Once again, I think that the metal Strat-style output jack things were a good idea, but I would have had to rout too thin to use one with the thinness of this body. I haven't found right-angle stereo plugs.

I am playing a few hours a day. The instrument sounds excellent. When I play low 5ths, the bass actually sounds drony like a propeller airplane from the inside. The treble sounds crisp, a little like a Steinberger, but the mids sound a little like a Les Paul.

Sorry If I hadn't posted any sound yet.

[traktor]

Originally posted by BrendaEM
... <snip> ... I haven't found right-angle stereo plugs. ... <snip> ...
See Neutrik Phone Plugs 3C 1/4" RIGHT ANGLE on mouser.com here --
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/626/865.pdf

The mouser part you probably want is 568-NP3RCS.

Neutrik is absolutely the best I've ever seen. We're using Neutrik jacks on our 'ClearCables' and I don't think they could possibly be engineered better.

[BrendaEM]

Hey, thanks Traktor : )

[rockola]

Originally posted by BrendaEM
I will post a sound sample soon.We are all still anxious to hear what this instrument sounds like...

[BigDaddyPoo]

Wow..I still get blown away every time I look at this page and see your finished product. I wish I could have afforded to buy more wood, I would have cut down on all the different types I had to use. Simpler is better.

You bought your trussrod and graphite rods from stewmac. Did you buy the specialized router bits or find something close at the local hardware store? I just ordered my rods which was $50 ( a lot of money for me. That's a weeks worth of groceries for a student.) But I realize that I'm going to have to spend just as much to rout the slots!

[RocknDrTom]

This project (and you) has really a great source of inspiration! I'm curious though - I've always been interested in a broad range of tonal variations, and I'm not familiar with the Alps fader. Is that purely for volume? Do you not have any kind of tone control (like the tone knobs on a Strat)?
Thanks again for a well-documented project that we ALL can enjoy!

[BrendaEM]

BigDaddyPoo, I used Stewmacs truss rods. Yes, saddly I got their router bits too. I don't think there is anything special about the bits, but I think one is metric.

RocknDrTom, the Alps fader is just a volume control. The pickup switch is in back. I still need to tweek the scewholes a bit and make a knob.

I don't have tone controls because I believe that signal processing can better be done offboard in a equalizer or preamplifier. I rarely find a need to change the tone while I am playing, and for me, I don't mind taking a few steps to change it.

[BigDaddyPoo]

I don't have tone controls because I believe that signal processing can better be done offboard in a equalizer or preamplifier.

Again simpler is better. I feel the same way. There is no need to clutter up an instrument with a bunch of knobs and switches that you will probably never adjust in mid song.

How is the fader working out? Do you like it as much as you thought you would? At first it kinda looked foreign to me, but the more I look at it the more elegant it looks. Very clean looking.

[BrendaEM]

The screw holes are still a bit off. I need to tweek it a bit.

[RocknDrTom]

I mostly wanted to bump this one up again. It's well worth the read for any aspiring builder. I just re-read through the steps on using TruOil, since I wanted to use the same finish on a fretless bass I am working on.

Thanks Brenda for documenting EVERYTHING so well.

[BrendaEM]

I'll bump it by one line, too:

Thanks : )

BTW, even in the San Jose heat, the Tru oil finish is holding out well. I wish I had let the neck settle a week before the final finish, but that's hard to do.

[BrendaEM]

I'm in the process of refinishing my touch guitar. I plan to sell it. It had a few dings on it, and I wanted it to look nice. I figure--let someone else put their own dings into it : )

Wow, emotionally it was hard to desolder things, disassembling it. Don't ever get hit by a car--even if they ask you nice.

[baev_al]

Hello BrendaEM and everyone!!!
I am inspired by your project! I have everything to complete my tap instrument except time. I will make double trussrod one, and almost all parts I bought at Stewmac. Quality and prices are excellent in spite of that I am living in Ukraine. I have special box where everything waits for me to start my job. :))))

By the way what about sound samples? Or did I miss something?