Luke's 10-String

[Luke Sheridan]

Hi everyone, my name is Luke and I've been lurking for a few months. I've decided tapping is something I'd like to take up, and building my own is the only way to go.
Now, I have to state that I've never even touched a tap instrument. I've built about seven basses and have been playing for some time, but tap-style is entirely new, both for playing and for construction.

Anyway, here's what the build will be:

36-inch scale, 10-string, .350 sting spacing, midi output on melody side. I'll be using GraphTech's hexpander pre along with their vt-100 saddles. Pickups are a custom set of DualCoil Humbuckers I'm having made by Nordstrand. One for each side.

I'm not entirely set on the tuning. While I'm a bass player, i do want to explore more of the treble, but right now I'm eyeing Dual Bass Reciprocal. That could definitely change. I've read some of Traktor's articles and I like what he's saying about ease of learning, but there's something that's drawing me to the other tuning styles.

So I have a few questions:
Will StewMac's 24-inch rods offer enough adjustment along the length of the neck? I install them with the adj nut towards the body, which leaves about 2 inches before the nut on 35-inch scale. Thoughts on this are appreciated.

Bridge plate for the saddles. I've been searching out prices for 1/8 brass plate. A 12/12 sheet costs about $75. Alternatives wanted.

I'm on the fence as to whether it will have an on-board preamp. I think the melody side will be passive with a 5-way, perhaps even the bass side will get a 5-way.

Anyway, this is getting long. so I'll leave you with the wood I've chosen. Ignore the pencil outlines, as they're from another bass. This design is still in my head and yet to be drawn out.

Butternut core, Myrtle top, Padouk back. Wenge/bloodwood/maple neck with Cocobolo fretboard.


http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/myrtle.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/neckwoods.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/padouk.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/allwood.jpg

[Tom Drinkwater]

Have you had good luck doing a 3 ply body before? I am thinking about doing it at least once myself. I love the look of that neck blank, is that quartersawn wenge pretty stiff?

[Luke Sheridan]

Hi Tom.
The Wenge is pretty stiff and has a nice ring to it.
I like doing back plates. There's noting too complicated when compared to the top. Just more wood, clamping and prep. I'll probably do a black accent line as well. They also make doing cavity covers easier, IME.

Here's a shot from the back of my fretless.

http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/1031bubinga3.jpg

[rjgoos]

Luke wrote:

> .350 sting spacing, midi output on melody side. I'll be using GraphTech's hexpander pre along with their vt-100 saddles.<


What is the width of a GraphTech VT-100 saddle, or are you shaving them down to 0.35"?

[Tom Drinkwater]

Measures Length Width Height E to E
Inches 1.250L x 0.390W x 0.250H
Approx. In. 1 1/4L x 3/8W x 1/4H
Millimeters 31.75 9.91 6.35
Each set of six contains 3 different height saddles. Measurements here are for highest saddle. E to E is variable with this style of bridge.
These are the specs on the VS-100 string saver. I think that its similiar to the ones used on the Warrs but I could be wrong.

I'll be in my shop most of the day on the milling machine. I am making some prototype bridge/saddle gizmos. One design is similiar to the Wilkinson vs100 and another is similiar to the ABM single string bridge for guitars w/o the fine tuner.

I checked out the Sheridan Bass website, nice stuff. Do you make your own hardware or do you have a machinist that you work with?

What wood do you use to make the black accent line? How thick?

[Luke Sheridan]

There's enough on the sides of the saddle to shave off the 1mm to bring it down to .350.
Accent line is just black veneer. 1/30. The bridges I use come from ETS in Germany. He makes nice stuff but turnaround is glacially slow.
Glad you like the basses. Hopefully this will turn out nice.

[Luke Sheridan]

So I've made some progress. Got the body design down and routed for the neck. I had to save the CocoBolo for another build as it too narrow at one end. But I had a pre-ban Brazilian Rosewood board that I was saving. It has some sap in it, but I think it gives it a bit of character.

I'm doing the headstock last this time as I ran the whole neck through the thickness sander. Its dead flat. Cracked a dot inlay, but that can be easily fixed.

Two Carbon fiber rods and one truss inside. Need to design the headstock and not make it look like a stick. The bridge will probably get my next round of attention. Was able to shave down the saddles for the .350 spacing.
Anyway, pickups should be ready in a week or two.

Luke

Some progress shots:

http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/tappbody.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/tappneck.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/tappback.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/tapphead.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/tappbody1.jpg

[TheEclectic]

Nice looking instrument.

I have two Ghost Hexpander systems that I installed on my Megatar and thought I would offer unsolicited opinions. I have a V-Bass, VG-88 and two Axon MK II’s and I have noted the following:

When taping the input into your gear will be much lower than when picking or plucking. I have the setting for the higher string at full sensitivity and it does not come close to maxing out the meters. This need for high sensitivity magnifies or is even the cause of both of the following issues.

You will need a very good dampening system, especially if using a synth. Otherwise you will get false triggers from the open strings. I have tried several things and have yet to come up with a solution that I feel is adequate. However, I do have three different materials on my instrument right now and the combination seems to be doing OK.

The vibration from taping gets transferred into the pickups. This is noticeable mostly on the VG equipment. This causes some noises from either/and/or/both the bass and treble sides. Not really a trigger, but an audible rumble/thud or hiss (that’s not really the right word). It is very patch specific, with the distortion patches being the most sensitive to this.

Next time that I change the strings I am going to put a piece of padding under the bridge to help isolate the vibrations.

The Axon’s can produce a 1/2 step false trigger when releasing the strings. This happens when the fingers are back in the fret space (close to the lower fret), which often happens when playing chords or playing fast. This is due in part to the high sensitivity required to get the sounds to trigger. It is also due to the way that the Axon interprets vibrations. I have solved for this by pushing the tuning on the Axon so that it is flatter (-24), but I have to use VST’s in order to play in tune with the VG equipment. I have been in touch with axon about this.

The Roland GI-20 that I had was much, much worse about this than the Axon. This is 1/2 step issue is part of the nature of taping and holds true regardless of the pickup – it happens with the Ghost, RMC and GK-3 pickups. I understand that the Roland GR series may handle this better for their internal sounds, but will probably have the same issue when triggering other midi equipment.

Best of luck.

[GaryOpenhill]

i think the "classical guitar" shape of the body is both good looking and practical.

[PhoBucket]

Luke,
I like the desidn and craftsmanship of you instrument very much, but for some reason, it gets "Fat-Bottomed Girls" by Queen stuck in my head.

[Tom Drinkwater]

I love the body shape, it's almost like one of the 10 string designs I have lying around, mine was inspired by the shape of a snow board. Should be very comfy, can't wait to see it finished.

[Luke Sheridan]

Originally posted by TheEclectic

You will need a very good dampening system, especially if using a synth. Otherwise you will get false triggers from the open strings. I have tried several things and have yet to come up with a solution that I feel is adequate. However, I do have three different materials on my instrument right now and the combination seems to be doing OK.
... ...

Next time that I change the strings I am going to put a piece of padding under the bridge to help isolate the vibrations.


I was wondering how this would play out. I will be going with the AXON, not sure about an external synth, at least not yet.

So the Graphtech saddles still need some sort of dampening? They will be mounted on a brass plate. Can you suggest a good material? Also wondering about nut material. I have some 1/4 brass that i was looking into using. Now I'm wondering if its not the ideal material.

And thanks for all the nice comments everyone.

[TheEclectic]

I am not sure of the optimum material to use for dampening the bridge, what follows is pure speculation.

The down side to trying to isolate the bridge for vibration is going to be reduced sustain. So it is a trade-off.

The piezo pickups are going to pickup vibrations caused by tapping, rapping and/or whacking the instrument. These vibrations also cause some string vibration, which can also get picked up. I think that it even contributes to some of the false triggers from the Axon (mainly the octave overtones of sustained bass notes). I often wondered if I had not been better off using (2) GK-3’s.

Since the bridge dampening material it is going to be under a lot of compression I want something that will not get squished. I think that any type of foam would be to weak.

I am going to try using some strips of tennis racket handle wrapping. There are several varieties and they all have some padding. I am going to strip off the excess padding and just use the outer material – it is sort of like a piece of leather. I have also thought about using the left over material from those squishy little rubber dots that you put on the bottom of things that you don’t want to scratch your coffee table.

I do not think that the nut is going to be an issue as there will be dampening material in front of it.

What Axon are you going to use? If you do not already have one, please consider the AX-00 MKII or the AX-50 as Terra-Tec releases periodic updates to these systems.

I am very interested in hearing of your experiences with the Ghost system and the Axon, so please keep in touch.

[PhoBucket]

Luke,

Do you mill your own bridges? I noticed the Sheridan logo on the basses on your website.

[Luke Sheridan]

Hi. The bridges were made by ETS. I'm looking into a milling machine as these bridges have been hard to come by.

Can anyone recommend a string supplier? I tried ordering from Stick but was met with resistance and they refused to sell them to me because they aren't going on a Stick. :rolleyes:

These are for 35-inch scale.

I should have some pics in the coming days. Mae some progress on the neck.

[Tom Drinkwater]

Have you checked out www.juststrings.com ? I bet megatar strings would work too. What kind of milling machine are you looking at?

[PhoBucket]

I second the suggestion of Megatar strings (if they will work with the longer scale). I am very happy with the set I order for my Megatar.

I am ordering from juststrings for my laptar because of the custom gauges.

You could also try Warr Guitars.

[Luke Sheridan]

Originally posted by Tom Drinkwater
Have you checked out www.juststrings.com ? I bet megatar strings would work too. What kind of milling machine are you looking at?

Thanks guys. Never anticipated the issue with strings..

Milling machine is something I'm kicking around. Met a guy on Craigslist that was retiring from his hobby about a year ago and he offered it up.
I have to look him up again as I'm not sure the make.

On a more positive note, my pickups shipped out today. Should have em by Friday..

Luke

[arsacane]

Originally posted by Luke Sheridan
Hi. The bridges were made by ETS. I'm looking into a milling machine as these bridges have been hard to come by.

Can anyone recommend a string supplier? I tried ordering from Stick but was met with resistance and they refused to sell them to me because they aren't going on a Stick. :rolleyes:

These are for 35-inch scale.

I should have some pics in the coming days. Mae some progress on the neck.

You can buy strings from Warr or Megatar, they are both very nice and helpful. Their instruments are 34'' but I did try once the strings from Megatar on my 36'' stick with no problem, and I'm sure that the strings from Warr will fit your 35'' too.
I believe that Warr heavy gauge set is heavier than Megatar heavy set, check the gauges in the Megater site, I don't know if Warr has the info in their site but you can always send Jim an email.

Cheers, Daniel

[Luke Sheridan]

Hi All.

Ive been working on this, I swear. Quite a bit actually.

The first neck was a disaster: It cupped because it was just to thin for the trussrod. Anyway, that neck... :rolleyes:
I made a new one this weekend with a 9-piece laminate of maple/bloodwood/bubinga with a bubinga board and turquoise inlays. Had to get new myrtle burl for the headstock. Such a shame as the figure was beautiful. A lot has been done otherwise. The pickups are in. They're custom Nordstrand, soapbar shape with two sets of five-string humbuckers enclosed. Pretty elegant design. Wood covers are done. Electronic cavities are set. Bridge is next/

Anyway, I haven't had a camera for several months now as my kids, "um found it and, um, lost it." I'll post pics soon as my budget will allow.

[PhoBucket]

Looking forward to hearing those Nordstrands. Are you using an onboard preamp?

[Luke Sheridan]

Either an East U-Retro or an Audere on the bass side. Treble will most likely get a PRS setup with a five way, plus the Hexaphonic.

[Luke Sheridan]

So i still need to round over the pickup covers, but the rest is ready for oil.

http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/0727Tapp2.jpg

Coop made some nice pickups. Two five-string coils in one unit.

http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/0727nordy_tapps.jpg

Other shots:
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/0727Tapp.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/0727Tapp5.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/0727Tapp6.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/0727Tapp7.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/0727Tapp3.jpg
http://www.sheridanbasses.com/images/0727Tapp8.jpg

[jamsire]

Wow!

Very nice.

You wood people! Builder types.

I mean really.

[PhoBucket]

Wow, Luke. That's some serious stuff right there. Is that a figured Myrtle top?

[Luke Sheridan]

You leave my grandmother out of this.
Sure is.
I sanded her to 12000 last night. Gonna coat her in oil tonight.

[Tom Drinkwater]

Good god man, it's beautiful!!!!

[TheEclectic]

I just love that body shape.

You have seriously influenced the shape of the tap instrument I am building for the build-off.

[Luke Sheridan]

Thanks everyone. Its coming together nicely. Should be tapping - or learning to tap - real soon. Any feedback available on straps? I'm wondering if Megatar or Warr is better, more comfortable, etc.
thanks,
luke

[untouchable]

>> Can anyone recommend a string supplier? I tried ordering >> from Stick but was met with resistance and they refused to >> sell them to me because they aren't going on a Stick.

Hmmm, let's see, I ordered strings for the Stick I used to own from SE on 11-30-1996, they have yet to arrive !!! I was refused for a Stick, you were refused for a non-Stick, seems like Emmett selectively refuses delivery based upon his own whim. Order strings from Traktor, he's a down to earth honest supplier of what you need, and he'll supply regardless of what you tap upon.

And yes, send Greg & Steve's responses to the Crapper, they'll inundate you with the Pope-ness of Emmett's business practices, all of which are poo-poo in many others' opinions.

Go practice now,

[TheEclectic]

Strings:

Just Strings, you can choose your gauges and buy strings in bulk or individually (but they told me all bulk strings are only 42" long)
http://www.juststrings.com/

I also just came across "rogue" strings from Music123.com which can be bought in bulk. The downside is 0.025" is the thinnest, so you would have to find a source for non-wound strings.
http://www.music123.com/Search/Default.aspx?src=rogue+bulk+bass&pgno=1&ipp=48

Straps:

I really like the Megatar strap. I altered the attachment points from the stock location and the instrument now hangs really well. The string that attaches to the headstock also works well. I think that it would be worth your while to take a look at the Megatar strap.

[Luke Sheridan]

So were getting close here. I strung it up today. B-String is a little off so I'll need to cut a new nut. I'll need some new brass for that so its still a ways off. The Audere pre is installed. I just need to wire in the pups.
Melody side is next. Five-way Paul Reed Smith with a fourth pot for the Midi Volume, plus two switches for pup selection and Midi page.
Now, please bear with this question because to this day, I've yet to even hold a tapping instrument in my hands. Do I tune to open strings or to the 12th fret - or something else?
As for style of tuning? I really like what Trey has been doing and King Crimson is my all-time favorite, so Crafty may be where I'm going, but standard tuning is the alternative - or vice versa. I've been searching for setup guides and am weeding through the soup, but if anyone knows of one, I'd appreciate it. It sits really nicely on my calves right now with my feet crossed, and I think I may go with the Warr Strap. But hey, this is all new so a Megatar strap may also be in the works. Anyway... The pics:

http://sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/0810tapp4.jpg
http://sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/0810tapp3.jpg
http://sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/0810tapp2.jpg
http://sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/0810tapp1.jpg
http://sheridanbasses.com/images/Tapp/0810tapp.jpg

[jamsire]

I absolutely love it.

[matrix]

Man, I would totally buy one of those from you if you go into production.... peace

[arsacane]

I cannot wait for sound samples! The instrument looks awsome, congratulations.

And you say that you never tried a tapping instrument before? And please tell me that this is the 20th instrument that you build ;-).

Regarding the tunning; I tune the bass part in the first half of the neck and the melody on the sendond half. For me it makes sense to tune where you will spend most of the time playing.
The tuning itself, 4ths vs 5ths, crossed vs uncrossed, mirrored vs paralel; an endless topic prone to very heated debates!
There is a nice article describing different tunings by Daniel Schell here. (http://www.clicmusic.be/index.php?page=tunings-tg.php)

Cheers, Daniel.

[PhoBucket]

I am so digging those turquise inlays and the bridge plate. Can we please see a shot of the back of the instrument?