Bridge options?

[Steve H]

I have a 12 string tapper project started, working off the dimensions of a grand stick. I have the SE bridge modeled up in solidworks, but the more I look at it, the less impressed I am with it.

I could order a pair of strat type hardtail bridges and bend a new baseplate up on the pressbrake at work.

The single string bridges Brenda used for her build look like a good option also. Is there a drawing or measurements for these floating about the internet some where?

Any other ideas(36" scale, 3.65"w no taper, EMG guitar pickups, have not cut any relief below the pickups will be)?

thx

Steve

[BigDaddyPoo]

I think I'm going with wilkinson style saddles, because they mount directly to a flat plate. There's no need to bend. I'm also looking into the posibility of buying a couple of Line 6 Variax 300 guitars and stealing the bridge and electronics from those. No need for pickups. Guitar Center sells them for $160.

[rjgoos]

The problem with going with off-the-shelf bridge components, is the distance between the strings is typically 0.40". The problem with this distance, is that a 10 stringer gets marginally wide (for my hands) and a 12-stringer is too wide (again, for my hands), if played by the "cross-handed" technique. A Grand Stick, I think, has a 0.30" string spacing, except for the gap in the middle, 0.32" for a 10-stringer. The extra inch or so of neck width that this saves (compared to a 0.40 spacing) makes the neck lighter and makes it easier to reach across.

The question I have is...are there off-the-shelf bridge saddles, etc., out there compatible with a 0.30 or 0.32" string spacing?

[wwhwwwh]

Steve,

I have also started a 12 string project though I have been slow to post any pictures. I am attempting to build a bridge out of cheep and easy to find parts. I believe it will give me the same spacing for each string as my 10 string Chapman Stick.

The three parts needed to make this bridge are: a
1. A steel corner brace - This will act as a tailpiece and solid base for the bridge
2. A set of glass door hinges (like those found on an entertainment center) - These will apply pressure from the sides of the bridge saddles, sandwiching them together to prevent slippage.
3. A Neutral Bus Bar (for grounding a circuit breaker.) - This will become the individual saddles.

Using a hack saw, I cut the Neutral Bus Bar into 12 sections (each section has 3 screw holes on top).
Next, I cut a rough shape of the bridge out of the steel corner brace. The last cut was one side of each of the hinges. using pliers, I removed the small pole from each hinge that, if used for it's actual purpose, would hold the glass door in place.

I drilled screw holes as well as 12 holes for the strings on the metal plate.

The bad news: after all of this explanation, this bridge is still untested! Strings are on order from Warr guitars will be sent within two weeks. I'm sure I will have to do some tweaking to make the strings fit but I can't see any reason for it not to work.

The good news: All parts for this bridge were bought at the local Home Depot and cost less than $20.00.

I've tried to attach pictures.

Good luck!

Brian Behary

[rjgoos]

Originally posted by wwhwwwh
Steve,

I have also started a 12 string project though I have been slow to post any pictures. I am attempting to build a bridge out of cheep and easy to find parts.


Brian is the MAN!! Cheap and easy-to-find parts from Home Depot.....I love it!!

[wwhwwwh]

It doesn't look like my attachments worked.
Try this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wwhwwwh/

Brian Behary

[rjgoos]

What will the string spacing be, Brian? The use of electrical parts was way clever.

[wwhwwwh]

I think it will end up being right around .320" (a 10 string stick is .320" and a Grand Stick is .300") without any alterations to the saddles. I guess shims could be placed between each saddle to increase the spacing. They could also be ground down for less of a space, though that would make more work for consistency.

I imagine that different stores would carry different brands of electronics parts. I haven't checked but you might be able to get a different spacing by shopping at Lowe’s instead of Home Depot!

Brian Behary

[Steve H]

Wow!

Thanks Brian, I picked up a section of neutral bus to play with this morning. If the mill is not set-up tommorow, I'll take .010 off each side after work.

Friday I was about to order a six foot length of brass 5/16" square stock from MacMaster ($28+shipping), really glad I did not pull the trigger. I would have had to mill one side then drill and tap.

Thanks,

Steve

[BrendaEM]

The ones I used were for guitar, and not for bass. The saddles bases carrying the bass strings were filed to make sure the string eye stays in there..

Not taking the parts from my instrument, these are very rough in measurements--especially the screw holespacing. These are for reference only. I will not be held accountable for a ruined instrument. With that said...

Long 1.81" - 46mm
Wide .382" - 9.7mm
Height if base without saddle .307 - 7.8mm
*Hole spacing approximately - 1.06" 27mm

[To measure the hole spacing, I would need to take one off, use a transfer punch and measure that.]

I like these parts, though I wish they had a little more range for intonation adjustment. I needed to file in the saddles a little. If I were building an instrument, i would use these, or make my own.